Hiking around Chiprovtsi

Chiprovtsi is literally nestled in a valley with steep inclines on all sides. The hills are crisscrossed with narrow trails used for livestock (mostly sheep and goats-sadly, there are no water buffalo here). When the sun is rising, the mountains to the west turn pink and mist forms above the river that winds through town. At this time of day, Chiprovtsi looks like a fairy tale village, or like it belongs in a snow globe.

I live in the center of town. Walking in any direction will take me on a paved road bordered by closely built houses, a few small storefronts, and some empty buildings. After a few blocks, gravel and dirt roads will split off leading to the gardens that surround the village. Unlike Kravoder, where most of the homes had large yards with gardens, the houses in Chiprovtsi are close together, with little room for gardens. Many of the families have plots in the surrounding hills or homes in nearby villages with larger gardens. Beyond the gardens are the dirt paths winding up the mountains, leading through forests or meadows that the shepherds use or at one time did.

Since I’m not supposed to run along the paved road that leads in and out of Chiprovtsi because of stray dogs, I’ve been hiking and running on the mountain paths. I carry a whistle and a big stick when I go on long hikes just in case. I rarely see anyone else on them. Occasionally, when I’m close to town and the road is still wide and flat-ish, I’ll pass by a horse cart carrying wood or manure, or a person walking to their garden, but usually I’m alone.

There are so many trails in the hills surrounding Chiprovtsi, each one splitting off to somewhere else. I’ll often come across small shepherd sheds along the way or find the trail twists back onto itself. I don’t see many shepherds when I go hiking, but I also don’t seek them out. The sound of sheep bells carries far over the mountains and valleys and is a good warning signal. There are usually several large dogs scouting around the flock to protect it from the wolves and other predators in the forest—not something I want to meet on a walk. Some of the paths also lead to old monastery ruins or natural springs.